Question 1

My Wi‑Fi is not working—what do I do?

Accepted Answer

First establish whether all devices are offline or only one device/room. Check router/ONT power and lights, then test one device close to the main router.

Question 2

Is the broadband down or is it just my Wi‑Fi?

Accepted Answer

A wired test at the main router separates the incoming service from the wireless layer. If wired works but Wi‑Fi does not, focus on coverage, interference or the client.

Question 3

Only one phone or laptop won’t connect—why?

Accepted Answer

If other devices work, the broadband and router are probably live; forget and rejoin the network, verify password, update/restart the device and check it is not paused or blocked.

Question 4

Some websites work but others do not.

Accepted Answer

This can be DNS, VPN, filtering, IPv6 or the destination—not necessarily weak Wi‑Fi. Compare another device/browser, disable VPN temporarily and test a known site.

Question 5

The Wi‑Fi says connected but there is no internet.

Accepted Answer

The device has joined the local wireless network but the router may lack a working internet session, DNS may be failing, or access may be paused.

Question 6

Why am I not getting the full package speed over Wi‑Fi?

Accepted Answer

The package speed is delivered to the router; a wireless device’s result also depends on its radio, band, signal, interference, mesh hop and current traffic. Test the gateway or a capable wired device first.

Question 7

Why do different speed-test websites give different answers?

Accepted Answer

They may use different servers, routes, test durations, browser limits and load. Use the ISP/router test for line-to-router speed and a reputable nearby server for device speed.

Question 8

How should I run a fair Wi‑Fi speed test?

Accepted Answer

Pause large downloads, turn off VPN, use one modern device near the main router, confirm the band, and repeat three times. Also run a gateway or Ethernet test.

Question 9

Why is my gigabit Ethernet test stuck around 90 Mbps?

Accepted Answer

A 100 Mbps Ethernet negotiation commonly produces results near 90–95 Mbps. Check for a damaged/two-pair cable, 100 Mbps port, adapter/dock limit or forced speed setting.

Question 10

Why is upload slow but download is fine?

Accepted Answer

Upload can be consumed by cloud backup, cameras, video calls or malware; Wi‑Fi interference can also affect both directions differently. Test wired with background uploads paused.

Question 11

Why is Wi‑Fi slower in the evening?

Accepted Answer

More household traffic and neighbouring channel use can raise contention; an ISP network issue is also possible. Compare gateway and client tests at matched times.

Question 12

Why did my old laptop get slower after I upgraded broadband?

Accepted Answer

The broadband upgrade does not upgrade the laptop’s Wi‑Fi radio. An older 802.11n/one-stream client, driver or 2.4 GHz connection may be the limit.

Question 13

Does having lots of devices slow the Wi‑Fi down?

Accepted Answer

Idle devices use little internet capacity, but active or chatty devices share airtime and bandwidth. Cameras, backups and streams matter more than the raw device count.

Question 14

Why is the router app speed good but my phone speed bad?

Accepted Answer

The router test measures internet delivery to the gateway; the phone test includes the Wi‑Fi path, phone capability and location.

Question 15

Why is latency high even when the speed looks fast?

Accepted Answer

Throughput and delay are different. Congestion, bufferbloat, weak signal, retries, VPN routing or game-server distance can raise ping without reducing a headline speed result.

Question 16

Why is Wi‑Fi weak upstairs or in the garden?

Accepted Answer

Distance plus walls, floors, foil insulation, metal and glazing reduce signal. A centrally placed node or properly positioned mesh unit is usually better than extra broadband speed.

Question 17

Where should I put my router?

Accepted Answer

Put it upright, out in the open, elevated and as central as the fibre/cabling allows—away from cupboards, TVs, radiators, metal, fish tanks and large electronics.

Question 18

Can I keep the router in a cupboard?

Accepted Answer

It may work, but cupboards absorb and trap the signal, especially if metal or full of electronics. Moving the Wi‑Fi access point into the open usually improves coverage.

Question 19

Will a faster package fix a dead spot?

Accepted Answer

Usually not. Package speed improves capacity to the router; a dead spot is a radio coverage problem needing better placement, mesh or Ethernet.

Question 20

Where should I put a mesh booster?

Accepted Answer

Place it where it still receives a good signal from the upstream node—often midway toward the weak area, not in the dead zone. Keep it open and away from interference.

Simple answers to common Wi-Fi questions

What is the difference between 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz?

Why can’t I see separate 2.4 and 5 GHz network names?

How do I connect a 2.4 GHz-only smart device?

Should I permanently split the Wi‑Fi bands?

My old device can see neighbours’ Wi‑Fi but not mine.

Why won’t a WPA2-only device join my Wi‑Fi 6/6E router?

Is 6 GHz the same as 5G mobile?

Why does 5 GHz disappear farther from the router?

Should I disable 802.11b or old Wi‑Fi modes?

Why won’t my device connect to a hidden SSID?